tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6232612073114763332024-03-13T18:35:03.571-04:00Suits of Our LaborSolutions for all of your sartorial needs with quality, style and promise.
Suits of Our Labor Is Proudly Presented by Astor and Black Custom ClothiersUnknownnoreply@blogger.comBlogger22125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-623261207311476333.post-15911226335735161792009-04-24T14:59:00.004-04:002009-04-24T15:08:28.302-04:00Beggar Chic?<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZFPd1aSBLfVKyCpjKt0_N2Z02IDw2eF6C_JU2-x7-ND6sZtyJUTeJWrK9PEGiEZIaFecjZz1mPB5FKjqZLjiQc0dIM3n3UqdORdLGy4u0qljaj-WxhkTes3gqDtxFotyvWUTLWCgaylIv/s1600-h/P1010662.JPG"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZFPd1aSBLfVKyCpjKt0_N2Z02IDw2eF6C_JU2-x7-ND6sZtyJUTeJWrK9PEGiEZIaFecjZz1mPB5FKjqZLjiQc0dIM3n3UqdORdLGy4u0qljaj-WxhkTes3gqDtxFotyvWUTLWCgaylIv/s400/P1010662.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5328336630985098770" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUuIQ75v5p7hHhZ1QI-K3iIoRcTfcmWZpajGNnFiQxk6IYDghsWdSY_EE-sTQ70LkNZd1PMbzuGjZSI3OavySzWWqmjjBEX8f1El50J7AUu1KE5yYDaySMA-wv6uzNZkEDDEGUk3hLc_Lj/s1600-h/P1010661.JPG"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUuIQ75v5p7hHhZ1QI-K3iIoRcTfcmWZpajGNnFiQxk6IYDghsWdSY_EE-sTQ70LkNZd1PMbzuGjZSI3OavySzWWqmjjBEX8f1El50J7AUu1KE5yYDaySMA-wv6uzNZkEDDEGUk3hLc_Lj/s400/P1010661.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5328336271416527330" /></a><br />Visting Columbus, OH recently, I had the chance to see haberdasher David Kaye wearing his newest creation. He asked his tailor to collect scraps from the suits he had been making over the last month or so. These were then pieced together in the creation you see here. Still 100% hand made and a fully canvassed jacket to boot. Thoughts? Not built to be worn everyday...but I know DK will get some compliments on it. Love it or hate it, I would call this spreading your peacock feathers and drawing attention to your talent - making outstanding clothes.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-623261207311476333.post-23726554428159115132009-04-24T14:45:00.003-04:002009-04-24T14:58:44.399-04:00Inspiration: Gai Gohari<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhi-8g6TwrFaxFhz2k1oS12Juvxr2dSsCRWK9NAKKGUE5JVNr_Y5StxaytlpkMVFVzqHyF0opD31r-GpmZPDDEAx9W-jV6ArfmlV1_vL4sIXFy60F2O1KJCZIgHaraQC5quYhO14r2n9tKe/s1600-h/P1010664.JPG"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhi-8g6TwrFaxFhz2k1oS12Juvxr2dSsCRWK9NAKKGUE5JVNr_Y5StxaytlpkMVFVzqHyF0opD31r-GpmZPDDEAx9W-jV6ArfmlV1_vL4sIXFy60F2O1KJCZIgHaraQC5quYhO14r2n9tKe/s400/P1010664.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5328334301417309522" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit-VFOHq5kDZULxftQmDlQgGiVGhrF7bPlsp_fxakpcmoNPffwq4yCn7MmLfCVR8UUhQ3JHgXjDDJlEvqpQ9Rdtr9ymTxe8LDkK1LbDyjiWUSlLiahX_v5owuIc9GQZad5OQETE98Ak4Ev/s1600-h/P1010663.JPG"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit-VFOHq5kDZULxftQmDlQgGiVGhrF7bPlsp_fxakpcmoNPffwq4yCn7MmLfCVR8UUhQ3JHgXjDDJlEvqpQ9Rdtr9ymTxe8LDkK1LbDyjiWUSlLiahX_v5owuIc9GQZad5OQETE98Ak4Ev/s400/P1010663.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5328332434608616722" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br />I can always count on my man Gai Gohari to bring it...every day. He exudes the true Milanes style of dress...from the unbuckled shoes to the tie being slightly off. Beautiful mix of colors every time I see him. For more Gai...check his blog <a href="http://www.gaigohari.com">www.gaigohari.com</a>.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-623261207311476333.post-63977661468624897212009-04-10T14:38:00.007-04:002009-04-10T14:49:12.511-04:00Words with....Kenyatte Nelson<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhe0LlXzN4JiAQnPzbUnToLj7r58t5bdotoy1I6caommmZbjkW8FzxM6rfh46xUP_9LzrXTPtcIH_zOco8rNxZn7pJdho0XLX5NkoLurxzgXVOeXMHHKc6UFSXHnMxcPFGI4iamFODRMWi/s1600-h/best-dressed-men1-girls-0309-lg.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 303px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhe0LlXzN4JiAQnPzbUnToLj7r58t5bdotoy1I6caommmZbjkW8FzxM6rfh46xUP_9LzrXTPtcIH_zOco8rNxZn7pJdho0XLX5NkoLurxzgXVOeXMHHKc6UFSXHnMxcPFGI4iamFODRMWi/s400/best-dressed-men1-girls-0309-lg.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5323136718907185122" /></a><br /><br /><br />Words with...Is a look inside the minds of people who I personally think have a strong sense of style. Kenyatte Nelson "Americas Best Dressed Real Man In America" as voted by Esquire brings it EVERYDAY...look out for his blog <a href="http://www.tweedandvelvet.com">www.tweedandvelvet.com</a> I have enjoyed reading it and I am sure you will as well! (Oh yeah, Kenyatte is the proud owner of a few Astor & Black pieces and endorses them via his blog)<br /><br />Ok, let's start with this...describe your personal style.<br /> <br />To this question I would give you the same answer I gave Esquire - Life is a beautiful thing, I dress appropriately for her. I believe that each and everyone of us is emminsly blessed every day when we wake up and have been given the gift of another day. It's like waking up to the most beautiful women you have ever known....she deserves your best.<br /><br />Best piece of fashion advice you can offer our readers today.<br /> <br />Tip #1 Do ever let anyone fool you into thinking that it takes loads of money to look great. Money can buy you fashion. It cannot, however, buy you style. If you don't believe that all you have to do is watch sports center for about 30 minutes. You'll see athletes with tons of money who dress terribly. Meanwhile some of the most stylish people on the planet are broke college kids.<br /> <br /> Tip #2: Don't under estimate the power of detail. That doesn't mean "look to do more" it means pay attention to detail, simple or complicated. There is a reason why they say "The devil is in the details"....it's because that is where things can go bad if you don't pay attention. <br /> <br /><br />What item or items do you build your daily look around?<br /> <br /> I build my look around my sense of self...and the weather.<br /> <br /><br />What items if any do you tend to splurge on?<br /> <br />There is nothing that I won't splurge on if it's a great piece. I love the Italian sensibility of "buy the best of what you buy...even if it means you can only have one". Besides, when you buy cheap you will just have to replace it and spend more money. <br /><br />What fashion rule, if any, do you always break?<br /><br />I'm sure I've broken just about every rule that I know or I've heard of. Trial and error is how I learned much of what I know. Men are much too fearful of making mistakes. It's the reason why we sometimes struggle with fashion. Improving your living situation is easy (buy a bigger house), improving your driving situation is easy (buy a more expensive car) but improving you look is a little more difficult. <br />What fashion rule do you never break?<br /> <br />I always wear underwear....ALWAYS<br /><br />What is your must have item for Spring/Summer?<br /> <br />Light Gray cotton suit - Notch lapel with soft shoulder, double vent and off-white pearl buttons. Classically cool...<br /><br />Favorite store?<br /><br />Hugo Boss outlet in Tampa Florida. I make the trip 1-2 times a year. I also think the Gilt group is on to something.<br /><br />Who are your Style icons?<br /> <br />My father taught me just about everything I know, about everything I know. When I look at my style I can see his influence all over it.<br /><br />What is your most cherished item?<br /><br />A pair of 20+ year old cowboy boots that I stole from my fathers closet when I was in high school. Tan with a rounded toe and a Cuban heel. I have looked to replace them but they just don't make anything like it anymore....kinda like my father.<br /><br />What is your favorite item of clothing?<br /><br />Aside from those boots, my favorite item is my auburn blazer from Armani Colleczion. It fits like a dream and the fabric is about as "touchable" as it gets.<br /><br />What do you feel best wearing?<br /> <br />A suit, always. It's a smart look and when you dress smart you tend to behave that way.<br /><br />Do you have a personal style quirk? If so, what is it?<br /> <br />No personal style quick but I'm a little quirky if that counts<br />Most underrated item in menswear?<br /><br />Socks. The Japanese think we start dying from the feet up. If that's true then a good pair of socks could save your life. <br />What are you never caught wearing?<br /><br />My birthday suit. Unless there is a women involved<br /><br />Favorite fashion magazine or website?<br /> <br />Tweed & Velvet (www.tweedandvelvet.com), I also love reading V Magazine, Arena Magazine, Men's Style (Australia) and British Esquire<br /><br />Who is your tailor?<br /> <br />Paul from Q.F.A. Tailors in Cincinnati where I live.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-623261207311476333.post-73636508797394593772009-03-30T16:08:00.000-04:002009-03-30T16:09:26.579-04:00The Astor & Black package pricing - In case you forgot!<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhY070cvS-fvffRVmQv3EjGn-TpOvTtfcw_oGbhXsWMAcie9zAfeT5tFp3fpW1dwvpOT87KqbT9v_nhLRmjP6lNbzJMPGGojh_kJRICBz2_rw_Esa5D5GOy9Ken3QPowy7qAv6I6KAPhUT8/s1600-h/Astor&+black+Packages.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 213px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhY070cvS-fvffRVmQv3EjGn-TpOvTtfcw_oGbhXsWMAcie9zAfeT5tFp3fpW1dwvpOT87KqbT9v_nhLRmjP6lNbzJMPGGojh_kJRICBz2_rw_Esa5D5GOy9Ken3QPowy7qAv6I6KAPhUT8/s320/Astor&+black+Packages.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5319075326952345842" /></a>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-623261207311476333.post-29808307779094298402009-03-26T21:56:00.003-04:002009-03-26T22:04:31.911-04:00The "Casual Package"<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvWfgS8vPOWHNETbjZC1tNtChoAxqfWLqzsV6PmsjE_EZvrr7UfivxWMHayNk3nW-wBaXL3aBjQ0a4DmjNdwsxNVW1RxZCB9FBZwDFJfg1Q34SV3O1M5V9Go2D_L94maLq4tZtdvYqK3Yv/s1600-h/506392_fpx.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 262px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvWfgS8vPOWHNETbjZC1tNtChoAxqfWLqzsV6PmsjE_EZvrr7UfivxWMHayNk3nW-wBaXL3aBjQ0a4DmjNdwsxNVW1RxZCB9FBZwDFJfg1Q34SV3O1M5V9Go2D_L94maLq4tZtdvYqK3Yv/s320/506392_fpx.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5317682499204749010" /></a><br />Please to announce the arrival of new Astor & Black casual package. Book your appointment now to view the finest in Spring/Summer fabrics.<br /><br />2 Custom Full Canvassed Sport Coats (So many styles to choose from - think linen!)<br />6 Custom Shirts<br />4 Custom Pants<br />1 pair of fine Loake or Allen Edmonds shoes<br /><br />$2,200 - Super 120's Fabric<br />$3,300 - Super 150's - 220's<br />$4,400 - Scabal!Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-623261207311476333.post-78851236554936111592009-02-16T09:51:00.002-05:002009-02-16T09:54:30.546-05:00Astor & Black on Location - Sunset Club<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIBPg7elVpIXm-UsCxpprJmfkLu4VIPgtLMKSGajDoTzwh7iUlOZc5IYaNRo85QgJiIISJ6IUm2M3_QIxjwgCeID1mSJ0NMnCsbrb7Ij39RxC-w_ehJxk2F0TDrZys9mqRnbEPZ5xF0YN7/s1600-h/image56216.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 213px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIBPg7elVpIXm-UsCxpprJmfkLu4VIPgtLMKSGajDoTzwh7iUlOZc5IYaNRo85QgJiIISJ6IUm2M3_QIxjwgCeID1mSJ0NMnCsbrb7Ij39RxC-w_ehJxk2F0TDrZys9mqRnbEPZ5xF0YN7/s320/image56216.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5303408714137841586" /></a><br />The Sunset Club presents Woodford Reserve and Astor Black<br /><br />DAVID M. WATKINS OF ASTOR & BLACK CUSTOM CLOTHIERS<br /><br />would like to extend a special invitation to all Sunset Club members and guests.<br /><br />Please drop by and see some of the world's finest custom clothing at unbelievable prices <br /><br />Free tasting of Woodford Reserves fine Bourbon Products and Astor & Black Fine Custom Clothing....what a great way to spend your Tuesday evening!<br /><br />February 17th, 2009 6-9pm at The Sunset Club.<br /><br />There will be special Sunset Club pricing for this one day event.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-623261207311476333.post-63518423433472760402009-01-20T15:33:00.003-05:002009-01-20T15:38:44.968-05:00"YES WE CAN" dress better....<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhX2i1Yw-g2kpI9EnBUQVeq9JLouzy55tjGgA1MmdvqU0yQCQC_lDSZOreCHyePgHdvmELqMmOMypYzTedYSg4Szhww1tyCkPtvzMXfOrWV8xu0OxDLxFRlsNiS4RRrEVLg8kKYi-gRK9vJ/s1600-h/340x-55.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 222px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhX2i1Yw-g2kpI9EnBUQVeq9JLouzy55tjGgA1MmdvqU0yQCQC_lDSZOreCHyePgHdvmELqMmOMypYzTedYSg4Szhww1tyCkPtvzMXfOrWV8xu0OxDLxFRlsNiS4RRrEVLg8kKYi-gRK9vJ/s320/340x-55.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5293477701457040402" /></a><br />Obama has the potential to change how guys dress. Bush always looked better knocking-around the ranch in jeans, than he did in a suit. Obama on the other hand looks great in a suit, but not when he goes casual. So potentially, Obama’s public image and personal style may influence men everywhere to dress better themselves. Obama is our hope in more ways than one. He could start a resurgence in better menswear– a welcome and much needed “yes we can.” This would obviously also be a great shot in the arm for Hart Shaffner Marx– the venerable American tailored clothing brand that is Obama’s suit of choice. - theselvidgeyard.wordpress.comUnknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-623261207311476333.post-60047686362664289032009-01-16T16:05:00.001-05:002009-01-16T16:06:54.510-05:00Guest Contributor: Paul Walters "Breaking the Rules"Hello, and welcome back! Without a doubt you are all on your way to developing your personal style and backing it with integrity! I am excited about today’s post, because learning to break fashion’s rules is key in developing one’s own personal style. In today’s discussion we will go over some of the stylistic barriers that have reduced men to conformity for decades, and tastefully tear them down. The way that you break the rules allows you to insert individualism into the equation, once again producing a finished product that is you, and you alone.<br />Why break the rules, you might ask? Well, many of them are there for no reason. Some were established by dated tradition no longer applicable. The well-dressed sophisticate of 1990 would have cringed if you told him that his “power-suit” shoulder pads would look ridiculous ten years down the road. This illustrates one of the pitfalls of simply “keeping up with fashion” per our last discussion. Keeping up with fashion does nothing but date your ensemble. Things change. What looks good does not.<br />Our first rule deserving scrutiny is probably the most obvious and involves abstaining from wearing white after labor day. Whoever decided that fall and winter required a more somber code of dress jumped the gun. While wearing a white linen shirt with epaulets or an all white suit may be pushing the envelope, worrying about wearing white after labor day should not dictate your wardrobe choices for the cooler seasons.<br />My simplest suggestion for breaking this rule is to pair white or cream-colored trousers with a well tailored navy blazer. White shoes, quite frankly, are a little much for fall and winter. Wear a shade of brown from tan to chocolate, but maintain consistency with the color of your belt. Loafers work very well with this look, but simplicity is key. Refrain from tassels. Top the look off with a heather or light grey v-neck sweater. I would not recommend wearing white pants when the weather calls for a topcoat, which if you were to picture it, would look quite ridiculous. Also, whatever type of shoe you choose, suede would be the most complimentary material.<br />Another way to integrate white into your post-labor day wardrobe is by wearing a white dinner jacket to formal occasions, anchored of course by black trousers and shoes. The white dinner jacket alludes to Sean Connery’s James Bond or Humphrey Bogart, so the association with something classic is instant in the mind of anyone who notices you. When choosing a white dinner jacket, I would recommend a shawl collar. Since you are bending the rules with this look, the shawl collar backs up the “hipster” persona.<br />While the next item of discussion is not necessarily a rule, it deserves mentioning. In America too many men seem to feel bound by the black dress shoe. In Italy, a common philosophy is that black shoes should be reserved for weddings and funerals. Brown shoes lend themselves quite well to many of the outfits where one would typically wear black; navy, grey, olive, khaki, reds, and denims alike all benefit from brown footwear. If you’ve never worn brown shoes, it can be hard to break the habit, so begin with a dark chocolate shoe in a classic wingtip or cap-toe, and work your way up to lighter colors, such as tan or chili. Astor & Black carries excellent American shoes by Allen Edmonds as well as and top quality English shoes by Loake, both of which supply shoes in countless shades of brown. Neutral polishes applied regularly work great, as many brown polishes are of a very specific hue. You wouldn’t want to use a dark brown polish on a tan shoe. Your belt should match the shoes.<br />Many are of the mindset that shoes, belts, and watchstraps should all match. This brings us to our next rule. Shoes and belts should definitely match. I believe this rule to be a staple of men’s dress, but your watchstrap, however, presents a wonderful opportunity to express yourself. One of my watches boasts an alligator strap in cerulean blue. For more conservative occasions, I would not wear this watch. It doesn’t have much place in a boardroom meeting, but when the blue echoes a suit’s pinstripe, or a tie or pocket square’s color pallet, the watch is a wonderful way to add panache to an outfit. I frequently wear a Panerai with a peanut butter leather strap and will unabashedly wear this watch with darker shades of brown, and even black on occasion. A man’s watch says a lot about him and is the most acceptable form of jewelry a man can wear. Feel free to push some limits with your watch.<br />Regarding suits, rules can become rather dodgy. One item I’d like to touch on concerns functional buttonholes on cuffs (these are referred to as surgeon cuffs, by the way). It used to be that only well-made suits bore this attribute, while now some makers of low-quality garb are utilizing the surgeon cuffs to make their suits look more costly. I have heard older stylists say that to leave one of the buttons of your cuff undone is at “the height of vulgarity” or that someone wearing a high-end suit should not have to justify such a display of its quality. To these individuals: you have my respect. But I like the look, and for those of us who do, we deserve to break the rule. We paid for the right when we bought a decent suit!<br />If you are of the mindset that the cuffs should remain buttoned, stick with it. Or unbutton only one button on one sleeve. In my recent Astor & Black suit purchase, I chose a different colored thread for the first buttonhole of my cuffs, so that leaving one unbuttoned has more meaning than displaying its function. Again, regardless of the quality of your suit, surgeon cuffs allow a way to stand out from the masses and inject a little bit of personality into your outfit. Don’t be stifled by stoics.<br />There is an Italian style term called “sprezzatura”, which refers to an almost disheveled elegance. This can be displayed in a variety of ways, such as a marginally sloppy tie-knot or the skinny side of the tie being slightly longer than the front. Brightly colored socks that flash when you cross your legs or the seemingly careless “piled in” pocket square are all examples of sprezzatura. Leaving a button undone on surgeon cuffs? I believe this qualifies as well. Have fun with it and stand out for the sake of being who you are.<br />Why should you break the rules? Because they’re there.<br />Until next time,<br />Cheers!<br />PaulUnknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-623261207311476333.post-74863239178671476742009-01-06T16:20:00.001-05:002009-01-06T16:23:06.620-05:00REVIVAL OF THE FITTEST – STYLE ESSENTIALS FOR 2009 AND BEYONDLet’s approach 2009 with a renewed sense of vigor and a renewed vision of our wardrobes. Below are the essentials for the new-year and suggestions on how to wear them. <br /><br /><strong>The Suit:</strong> A man in a suit can be hit or miss, but a man in a fine fitting suit will have the ladies swooning. The most crucial elements of a suit are fit and construction. A good fit will have you looking 10lbs slimmer. You’d never catch Mr. 007 in a baggy ill-fitting suit. Come on gentlemen, get fitted! As far as construction, go full canvass my man! A well made, fully canvassed suit, cared for properly, should outlast you. There are custom options in town offering hand tailored suits at off-the-rack prices. Seek them out. It’s a wise investment and you’re worth the effort.<br /><strong>The Look: </strong>Suits of today wouldn’t be out of place in London circa 1960- skinny cut, thin lapels, side vents, and flat front pants. Paying close attention to the details, this will separate you from the herd. Try adding intensely colored linings, pick stitching and functional buttons. Also, the modern suit can be worn a myriad of ways. Add a vest when buying suits (just another weapon in the arsenal). To amp up your casual look wear your suit with a t-shirt or your vest with a button down and jeans. Explore the options and rock what works best for you. <br /><br /><strong>The Cuff link:</strong> For those of you who don’t know, cufflinks are for your French-cuffed shirts. The cuff link has developed into a sophisticated part of a man’s wardrobe. With a wide variety of stones, precious metals, fabrics and designs, the cuff link is a well-dressed man’s style staple.<br /><strong>The Look:</strong> Choose links that are tasteful and refined—don't be too flashy. Sterling silver with black enamel is classy and versatile. Cuff links look great when going casual and can add humor or interest to a shirt. Have fun and express your personality! And no, your links don't need to match your watch. (Since we are talking accessories - a silver tie bar adds punch to any outfit.)<br /><br /><strong>The Pocket Square:</strong> A pocket square can add a dash of elegance and interest to a suit. The silk ones with patterns are a little more daring, so be sure of your setting. It’s great for all occasions and will complete your look. <br /><strong>The Look:</strong> When all business, keep the pocket square white with a sharp crisp line. I prefer cotton. Feeling a little more adventurous? Point it out and change the color. For full on personality, brighten it up with patterns and literally let it all hang out. Think outside the “box” - never buy a matching tie-and-pocket-square set. <br /><br /><strong>The Overcoat:</strong> “Experts” say we are in for one the coldest winters the QC has seen in a while, so it’s time to invest in a well made, form-fitting overcoat. Start by trying the same size as your suit jacket or sport coat, including chest measurement and length. Overcoats are cut larger, but you may find a better fit one size up or down.<br /><strong>The Look:</strong> The best color for overcoats is navy, charcoal, or black. Stick with wool, cashmere, or a blend of both. Both can be worn with jeans or a suit; so you should invest. Keep the length above the knee.<br /><strong><br />The Tuxedo:</strong> A cummerbund, bow tie and vest set WILL NOT WORK. Retire it. <br /><strong>The Look:</strong> Maintain the classic style of the tuxedo – Black and White, that’s it. I like the comeback of the shawl collar. It will compliment both retro and contemporary styles and will distinguish you from the “normal black suit” crowd. The bow tie is always a winner. Depending on the event, try a skinny black tie. Please stay away from the leather ones.<br /><br />To sum it up, always remember fit and construction when buying suits, overcoats, shirts and for that matter, shoes (an entire article in itself!) Invest in well made, classic pieces and the “GQ look” will be yours forever.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-623261207311476333.post-11459812540513197812008-12-08T11:03:00.005-05:002008-12-08T11:21:16.592-05:00December Specials<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKhfST3JORfO1oSQbcayLujk5uY7MM7ItIvCRncNNAFLuYDk1WxTQR2tekpBrmlj1Ob1ctuUBrKY2chRktZ4oupKFvYgaxgiqMxkqGeTjuAZgzAkj4QXuooz3GC4c2whxU58uKWKUHORO7/s1600-h/scabal_tie1.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKhfST3JORfO1oSQbcayLujk5uY7MM7ItIvCRncNNAFLuYDk1WxTQR2tekpBrmlj1Ob1ctuUBrKY2chRktZ4oupKFvYgaxgiqMxkqGeTjuAZgzAkj4QXuooz3GC4c2whxU58uKWKUHORO7/s320/scabal_tie1.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5277454307554392290" /></a><br />Happy Holidays from Astor & Black. Gift cards available now! <br /><br />December specials.<br /><br />** Buy 5 Shirts and get one shirt to give as a gift!<br /><br />** Buy 6 shirts get 2 shirts for 1/2 off.<br /><br />** 100% Cashmere overcoats, fully custom. Reg-$1500 December...get one for $1250!Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-623261207311476333.post-25013526228455893832008-12-05T13:36:00.004-05:002008-12-05T13:45:24.553-05:00The Astor & Black Military Jacket100% Custom, 100% Hand Made - Nuff Said. Touch base with me to orders your now.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJBHzSqBEqaxLwMeGBK1s1puQgh50uhyphenhyphen0i2C93rG_bdsQy9VNRLYP2di7DWs2wWhuOfrydckJpdQiBDIvgwZIUNv7tw212RE5DI3q8hD8vyc8HQnQj9zRN04DrZPg-el_icZX7iHCQq2Wc/s1600-h/astorblack_628.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 214px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJBHzSqBEqaxLwMeGBK1s1puQgh50uhyphenhyphen0i2C93rG_bdsQy9VNRLYP2di7DWs2wWhuOfrydckJpdQiBDIvgwZIUNv7tw212RE5DI3q8hD8vyc8HQnQj9zRN04DrZPg-el_icZX7iHCQq2Wc/s320/astorblack_628.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5276378613070139954" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQ-BD2XoYqGOLZGR0hyoJt9RLBLIzpoPHWQ6J-n2OSealh58kbAiTeJJUSnbTKt9IprV0WEflRwR4HfyyKJ3RGM8s108Wvp9Bwz1fUM2vNGvUEzRcyXwqyjYX3noN_n_HDnf8K6o9U3yXn/s1600-h/astorblack_644.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 214px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQ-BD2XoYqGOLZGR0hyoJt9RLBLIzpoPHWQ6J-n2OSealh58kbAiTeJJUSnbTKt9IprV0WEflRwR4HfyyKJ3RGM8s108Wvp9Bwz1fUM2vNGvUEzRcyXwqyjYX3noN_n_HDnf8K6o9U3yXn/s320/astorblack_644.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5276377913381060850" /></a>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-623261207311476333.post-80311081860847874482008-12-03T15:54:00.002-05:002008-12-03T15:57:26.835-05:00Guest Contributor: Paul Walters - "Stylistic Integrity"Hello again. You have no doubt been practicing the presence of first impressions. Our conversation regarding their power and the importance of maintaining a polished image afterwards brings me to the next matter of business. <br />Today’s writing will delve into what I call “Stylistic Integrity.” As far as I know, this is my own terminology, but the principle applies to everybody. Stylistic integrity refers to developing one’s own personal sense of style, and integrating that style into your wardrobe. I must first stress the difference between “fashion” and “style.” Someone who simply keeps up with fashion is continually updating their wardrobe with pieces pushed seasonally by designers. One can definitely dress well this way, but the tendency to look like a mannequin in a department store window is virtually unavoidable. There is no face to go with the outfit; no real personality present.<br />The key to “style” is individuality. One who is developing his style (rather than keeping up with fashion) is updating their wardrobe with pieces that will always look good on them, instead of watching designer-created trends that will unavoidably go by the wayside. Buy for quality, and not necessarily for quantity. Steer clear of pieces that may be fashionable, but are simply not you.<br />A well-developed wardrobe may take 20 years to build to one’s satisfaction. That’s okay. Take your time. With patience, you will fill your closet with pieces that will look good for that long. <br />Some may ask, how do I know what is my personal style? How do I avoid buying simply to fill a certain fashion niche? For most of us, our identity is in flux, changing with life’s curve balls. What I offer is this: build your wardrobe around the things you like. If you like a Windsor knot as big as a croquet ball, choose ties that are made from thick fabric (generally Italian silk) and have at it. Those ties will serve you for years. If you have a passion for French-cuff shirts, diversify your cuff link collection, and buy shirts made from quality cotton. If you like bright colors, express them in your socks! A brightly colored sock is understated until you want it to be. Stick to the things that you like. Don’t let trends dictate your passions.<br />Fill your closet with things that make you happy. It’s nice to be able to choose fabrics in colors and patterns that you love, as you won’t get tired of wearing them. Invest in a couple of custom shirts. Astor and Black makes beautiful shirts with your choice of fabric, cuff-style, and collar-style. These are exceptionally well-made and, if cared for properly, will last you for years. Here’s another tip: custom-made clothing is not going to go out of style, and it will always be your style. Designing your clothing from start to finish is going to insure that the only person who knows when it was made is you, and leaves you knowing that you made a purchase for quality. <br />This is an investment in your personal style. This is especially important with suits. Pick up a couple of magazines, such as Esquire or GQ, and look at pictures of the suits for the features that really impress upon you. Some suits have an additional pocket on one side, above the waist. This is called a ticket pocket, and may be what you were looking for to make your suit stand out. Suits with functional buttonholes on the sleeves usually employ thread that is the same color as the suit fabric. Why not change that? Pick a bright red paisley print for your jacket’s silk lining if it rings your bells! <br />I mention all of this because it costs about the same price as a nice off-the-peg suit from a department store to have a suit custom-made by Astor and Black. An Astor and Black client can choose every detail of his suit’s construction from lapel size and shape to thread color on functional buttonholes. Features like a bright jacket lining, a ticket pocket, thread choices, or slanted or straight pockets are included in the price of your suit! Hand-picked stitching on lapels and pocket flaps is included if you like it, and can even be done in a different color thread from the rest of the jacket. The finished product will be decidedly YOU!<br />What I am stressing here is that your style is simply that: your own. And along with your mistakes, your style is one of the few things that you can truly call your own. Stylistic integrity can be achieved by embracing your quirks. Go all-out and exploit them! If you know “rules of fashion,” learning to break them is essential. Next time we talk, we’ll converse about some fashion rules. At that time I’ll provide you with some ideas on how to break them. Until then, <br />Cheers!<br />PaulUnknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-623261207311476333.post-36304842267023132572008-11-19T21:30:00.002-05:002008-11-19T21:38:11.770-05:00Cashmere-Just in time for the Holidays...<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoTw4UdVCUiNFgYPG_9vePwqp98VUy5a53g0y1p6QfADNU5yh4e1SVCiHre2OY8XUji_wtovlCceH5iJGSTOykHfB8TZotSZZZw9CsSvu5L1NW9GeFVG8dQGkzsqSNYQH8ULioMX2W-vPX/s1600-h/cashmere10.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 210px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoTw4UdVCUiNFgYPG_9vePwqp98VUy5a53g0y1p6QfADNU5yh4e1SVCiHre2OY8XUji_wtovlCceH5iJGSTOykHfB8TZotSZZZw9CsSvu5L1NW9GeFVG8dQGkzsqSNYQH8ULioMX2W-vPX/s320/cashmere10.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5270563266533840994" /></a><br />From the company that brought the best (and reasonably priced) bespoke suits to Charlotte, now comes the finest cashmere sweaters and overcoats.<br /><br />Astor & Black recently inked a deal with one of the country’s premier outfitters of cashmere sweaters. Choose from crews, v-necks and zip-ups in every color under the sun. Prices start at under $200 - amazing considering that nearly identical pieces in a premium department store would cost triple that amount. <br /><br />Even better, A&B also offers custom-fitted overcoats in cashmere from the ultra-luxe Loro Piana firm. As expected, we personalize the coat to your exact specifications, including color, length, lining and buttons. All for less than some boxy and unflattering off-the-rack wool shell at the mall.<br /><br />Expect the same amazing quality and fit as found in our custom suits and blazers. And guys, if you haven’t had the opportunity to own an Astor & Black original, be sure to try one. <br /><br />So let's get together...schedule an appointment to see the wears' today!<br /><br />Contact: davidwatkins@astorandblack.com. www.astorandblack.com for more info.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-623261207311476333.post-81996118911553553392008-11-18T10:03:00.003-05:002008-11-18T11:07:32.741-05:00Guest Contributor: Paul Walters - "1st Impressions"Greetings! My name is Paul Walters and I have grown up with somewhat of an affinity for men's clothing (no, baseball caps and sneakers don't count) and often downright dandyism, and am pleased to be offered the opportunity to share my thoughts.<br /> Today's post expands upon the notion of looking one's best. Down the road my writings will be graced with more specificity, but as this is my first, let's discuss why we spend our time visiting sites such as this. I assume all of us here have a desire to not only put our best foot forward, but to smash it down in the face of mediocrity and insolence. <br /> Will Rogers once said, "You never get a second chance to make a first impression." Makes sense, right? Well, studies have shown that, upon your first meeting, an individual will give you a primary sweep and evaluate you within 30 seconds; and, it can take up to five years for them to change their initial opinion of you! If that is truly the case, I would hate to face the potential of meeting anyone important while running to the grocery store in worn track shoes and sweats. If this sits with you well, please read on.<br /> The first impression is only the first step. Continuity is crucial. Consider this scenario: you have a job interview for an important position under an important boss. Five people interview, and all of you have the same qualifications. Obviously, the way you look when you walk into that room is how you will be viewed throughout the hiring process (assuming you speak with more intellect than Gomer Pyle). Did you look the part? Excellent! Let's move on.<br /> Why waste any time presenting an image of poise and polish if it cannot be repeated? Maintaining a standard of excellence in your dress assures an employer that when you wake up in the morning, you take your time preparing to do your job. This assurance manifests itself throughout the whole of your work relationship. If you prepare to come to work, the assumption will be that you prepare to do your work. This is why two associates hired at the same time cannot both get a corner office with a window! The one that stands out is justly rewarded.<br /> Shave daily, for crying out loud! Press and iron your clothes! Wear a tie! Shine your shoes! And then, imagine that everyone else does, too. Breaking through the corporate mold is where individuality finally comes into play. J.F.K. said, "If you accept 2nd place when 1st is available you make a habit of doing it for the rest of your life." Dress for first place, and all others can be nothing better than second. <br /> Obviously, the workplace is a metaphor for all other areas of one's life, as work encompasses most of our lives, but the theory remains the same. I've never gotten shoddy service at a department store if I was dressed well. I've never repelled women when I was dressed well, and consequently, I'll always make sure that I am dressed well! <br /> Hopefully my dedication to "the cause" has been well represented. My next writing will further explore developing stylistic individuality rather than simply explaining the nuts-and-bolts approach to self-representation, but remember: If you've found yourself here, the desire to look like a million bucks (whether you spend it or not) is obviously an itch that needs to be scratched, and you've come to the right place. <br />Cheers,<br />PaulUnknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-623261207311476333.post-28968842200035700362008-11-08T15:50:00.002-05:002008-11-08T15:56:23.533-05:00Tie The Windsor Knot....I get asked at least once a week about my knot and how to go about it. Well, here is the least annoying instruction I have been able to find. This video should do it for you. <br /><br />The Windsor knot, also (wrongly) known as the "Double-Windsor" (a non-existing enormous 16-move knot), is the most well known knot in the world. The Windsor is a large, symmetrical, self-releasing triangular knot. The tie was named by Americans in the 1920-30's after the Duke of Windsor. The Duke was known for his fondness of large triangular tie knots, but didn't in fact invent this particular knot. His secret was a specially tailored tie with an extra thickness of material. There are four tie-versions that result in the "Windsor" knot; two self releasing, and two non-self releasing. This version filmed here is considered as the original (self releasing) version. The video is to be viewed as if you were looking in a mirror.<br /><object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/ZQQr09Ja1zY&hl=en&fs=1"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/ZQQr09Ja1zY&hl=en&fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-623261207311476333.post-5109207487639358112008-11-06T16:47:00.003-05:002008-11-06T16:53:13.445-05:00Anatomy of a well made suit...<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh01vzgcvrBSxha-5qT1d3vWSLBbf2LgoelXw-AomwxepNL4IPcxJ7fK3m6mS8GywkxYkoznmtIUjdbdXGRFPs6lUShwsREoY4z9x1Zpimagllq7_KaZxax34GtxrynpIBERe1dX4jPx8cy/s1600-h/well+made+suit.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 230px; height: 306px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh01vzgcvrBSxha-5qT1d3vWSLBbf2LgoelXw-AomwxepNL4IPcxJ7fK3m6mS8GywkxYkoznmtIUjdbdXGRFPs6lUShwsREoY4z9x1Zpimagllq7_KaZxax34GtxrynpIBERe1dX4jPx8cy/s320/well+made+suit.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5265665838602171346" /></a><br /><br />A great article from <a href="http://www.forbes.com/forbeslife/style/2008/10/31/menswear-perfect-suits-forbeslife-cx_jp_1031style.html#suit">FORBES</a> about the anatomy of a well made suit. A good read for research. I am proud to say that every Astor & Black suit fits the criteria and then some...and it all comes standard, no extra charge for full canvass or functioning button holes. <br /><br />Visit <a href="http://www.astorandblack.com">Astor & Black </a>to learn more then call me for an appointment.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-623261207311476333.post-20267220425325196522008-10-22T11:53:00.005-04:002008-10-22T21:15:27.594-04:00Charlotte Style Magazine - 25 Most Stylish.<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigMomWGQD2g4HMD_f29p3aCqruu11UaY1e7ElmoYBiLnPkQgX6VH5gjcSVn-bzj21qa_qoZdzHanh1pk-CALJK0w0PV-IX9VVUsp_QeDLX9nKn-IzDteUgIqs3TjqlhFTgtgVZmVjPtRyf/s1600-h/charlotte+style+logo.gif"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigMomWGQD2g4HMD_f29p3aCqruu11UaY1e7ElmoYBiLnPkQgX6VH5gjcSVn-bzj21qa_qoZdzHanh1pk-CALJK0w0PV-IX9VVUsp_QeDLX9nKn-IzDteUgIqs3TjqlhFTgtgVZmVjPtRyf/s320/charlotte+style+logo.gif" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5260007261611388706" /></a><br />Yes...this is a shameless plug. #22...not bad for a rookie. Feel free to see who else made the list by clicking on the logo...or go directly here:<br /><br /><a href="http://www.charlottestylemag.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/10/25-most-stylish-11.pdf">http://www.charlottestylemag.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/10/25-most-stylish-11.pdf</a><br />#22 David Watkins<br /><br />Charlotte native David Watkins graduated from UNCC with a degree in Sociology. He spent 10+ years as<br />a marketing and advertising executive, and then realized his true passion for custom clothing. He is currently launching the Astor and Black Custom Clothier label in Charlotte. Watkins loves bright socks, old school Adidas footwear, and describes his personal<a href="http://www.charlottestylemag.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/10/25-most-stylish-11.pdf"></a>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-623261207311476333.post-43881643317469970682008-10-06T16:00:00.005-04:002008-10-22T21:15:03.987-04:00Astor & Black Brings Babette Wasserman to Charlotte<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbAb7T2HWNUkDJBXBbqB_zMPgFYDxiL9FxuVD1ANnDpxeSEh73QUF0jEs7PfqPSLYJTEnYDlWatuFiaphiZI1iHb2E0ndmjFLUzYAF4FgyNX1X35B9abBMpdUpou4gWKIQVyfdvLOMxf0Y/s1600-h/BW.gif"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbAb7T2HWNUkDJBXBbqB_zMPgFYDxiL9FxuVD1ANnDpxeSEh73QUF0jEs7PfqPSLYJTEnYDlWatuFiaphiZI1iHb2E0ndmjFLUzYAF4FgyNX1X35B9abBMpdUpou4gWKIQVyfdvLOMxf0Y/s320/BW.gif" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5254134366657688674" /></a><br />Astor & Black will now be carrying the entire line of Babette Wasserman accessories. Here is a little history on the company and it's products. Pre-order now in time for the holiday!<br /><br />HISTORY<br /><br />Classically trained at Central St. Martin's<br />College of Art in Central London, Babette<br />Wasserman launched her own jewelery<br />label and cufflink collection in early 1997.<br />Widely regarded by the fashion industry<br />as the most progressive designer of <br />stylish, fashionable and innovative<br />jewelery, Babette Wasserman can be<br />found in some of the most exclusive stores<br />around the world. She is renowned for her<br />original and versatile designs which include<br />the popular Saucer (reversible) cufflinks<br />and her 'Reversible' pieces of jewelery.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-623261207311476333.post-40139040147965615122008-09-08T17:21:00.001-04:002008-09-08T17:24:03.117-04:00Winter SpecialHello...Astor and Black announced today a few new Winter specials...be sure to order now so when the weather drops...you are well taken care of. Tremendous new fall fabrics to choose from...so give me a call and I will come see you!<br /><br />Astor and Black Winter Specials:<br /><br />ADD ONE CUSTOM MADE OVERCOAT TO ANY A+B PACKAGE AND RECEIVE 10 PERCENT OFF THE OVERCOAT<br /> <br />ADD TWO CUSTOM MADE OVERCOATS TO ANY A+B PACKAGE AND RECEIVE 15 PERCENT OFF BOTH OVERCOATSUnknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-623261207311476333.post-82328043218294761672008-09-04T13:10:00.000-04:002008-09-04T13:26:00.827-04:00<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwTecv40790_RufS7wfhINX64Lyi_mmuZHLLpyqX3pO8fLPFWR4KVIuBg1KPTu4qeiOcAYbRyq_RfBpMFFUz_V4epVQvYXJ7hoYcVPxAUP994doDdLukVeYR8xt_q69f7TYkdtrvDpQKpW/s1600-h/suit-functional+button+holes.jpg"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwTecv40790_RufS7wfhINX64Lyi_mmuZHLLpyqX3pO8fLPFWR4KVIuBg1KPTu4qeiOcAYbRyq_RfBpMFFUz_V4epVQvYXJ7hoYcVPxAUP994doDdLukVeYR8xt_q69f7TYkdtrvDpQKpW/s320/suit-functional+button+holes.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5242218031460055874" /></a><br />Canvassed vs. Fused Suits<br /> <br />All of us need suits. For interviews, for work, for socializing.<br /><br />This post will explain the difference between a well-made and a cheap suit. I'll begin by saying that price is not necessarily indicative of a suit's quality. Much of a the quality of a suit depends on its construction, namely whether the jacket is canvassed or fused.<br /><br />Canvassed Jackets.<br /><br />A little bit of suit history. Traditionally, men's suits were canvassed. This means that between the lining of the suit and the wool on the outside, there's a layer of canvas. This canvas creates the foundation for the suit, much like a foundation for a house. The canvas is cut to your body shape and the wool is hand-stitched to the canvas. As you wear the jacket, the canvas conforms to your body's shape, creating an excellent fit. <br /><br />Because the wool is hand-stitched to the canvas, the fabric also drapes much more naturally, allowing a clean, well put-together look.<br /><br />Fused Jackets.<br /><br />Nowadays, however, most suit companies don't take time time to do this. Instead of a canvas lining, they companies fuse stiffer fabric to the wool of the jacket with glue.<br />This creates an unnatural stiffness in the jacket which does not allow the wool fabric to drape properly over the body. It's not just cheap brands that do this; Armani and HUGO BOSS, among others, construct most of their suit jackets this way to save themselves money (while still charging an arm and a leg for their 'designer' suits).<br /><br />What complicates the problem of fused jackets is that the glue degrades over time, or may come unstuck during the dry-cleaning/pressing process. When that happens, inevitably, you are left with the problem of bubbling. Where the wool detaches from the fused backing, the fabric ripples and generally looks horrendous. Moreover, there is no way to fix this problem once it's occurred- the jacket is basically shot.<br /><br />How to Tell a Canvassed vs. Fused Jacket.<br /><br />In a canvassed jacket, most of the stitching attaching the canvas and wool is behind the lapels. If you look carefully on the reverse side of a jacket's lapel, you can see the tiny stitched holding the layers of fabric together. A fused jacket will have no such stitching.<br /><br />It used to be the case that pick stitching, the stitching around the edges of a jacket's lapels, was indicative of a canvassed jacket. This is no longer the case, however, as many fashion houses now add pick stitching merely for the look. <br /><br />The single best way to determine whether a jacket is canvassed or fused, however, is the pinch test. Because most of the stitching holding the canvas to the wool is on the lapels, the canvas "floats" under the wool fabric, allowing the wool to drape naturally. What you can do is first pinch the fabric on the sleeve of the jacket to get a feel for the wool's thickness (sleeves are not canvassed). Then, pinch the fabric on the chest of the jacket. <br /><br />Does it feel the same thickness as the sleeve fabric? If so, it's canvassed.<br /><br />But if the chest fabric feels stiffer and thicker, the jacket is more than likely fused.<br /><br />What does all of this mean to me anyway?<br /><br />Generally speaking, fused jackets do not last as long as canvassed jackets, nor do they look as good.<br /><br />When you look at the price of some fully canvassed suits, you might get sticker shock. However, if you're going to be making the financial investment, it's better to spend $1,000 on one canvassed suit that on two $500 fused suits, or even for three $300 suits!<br /><br />The canvassed suit will look better on you and outlast any fused garment you buy. Moreover, the canvassed suit is more than likely of generally higher quality construction.<br /><br />Where Can I Go for a Canvassed Suit?<br /><br />Astor and Black makes excellent custom, fully-canvassed made-to-measure suits starting around $600. www.astorandblack.com<br /><br />What to Avoid.<br /><br />Avoid most department stores. The staff are relatively ignorant about how suits should properly fit. The clothing quality is sub-par. <br /><br />Fashion brands like Kenneth Cole, Hugo Boss, Armani, Burberry, Michael Kors, etc. are generally poorly constructed in 3d world countries and then sold to you at a ridiculously inflated price just because of their brand name. The employees generally work off commission and will generally tell you anything- wheeling and dealing- to get you to buy a suit. <br /><br />Men's Wearhouse and Jos. A. Bank also make generally poor quality suits. The staff can by pushy as well by telling you that clothing that does not fit you actually does, or that your style is somehow wrong. Generally not worth the price.<br /><br />Thanks to "Dissenting Opinon" for most of the info in this post. Good stuff lads.<br /><br />We at S.O.L. hope that you learned something to help you in your suit search!Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-623261207311476333.post-34523885496044024732008-08-13T20:34:00.000-04:002008-08-13T21:26:03.184-04:00Your personality...your pocket square.<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7gqjb8mmksfVpmSakQv1ZWlgYOZj-pGCGj9V4cUihCfIWq8bYv-eRW2CmtoukIFFHT_zruR8p288Js0ODrbAFYA1G-U9yYMvHGJHraCPxUXCBzhhLb58RRSIjVie1DO-ib19Y9LMQ9-3p/s1600-h/pocket+square+business.jpg"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7gqjb8mmksfVpmSakQv1ZWlgYOZj-pGCGj9V4cUihCfIWq8bYv-eRW2CmtoukIFFHT_zruR8p288Js0ODrbAFYA1G-U9yYMvHGJHraCPxUXCBzhhLb58RRSIjVie1DO-ib19Y9LMQ9-3p/s320/pocket+square+business.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5234178532217880626" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeZjH2ZMiPNeAHMHXzxKLVXfFMWQ1-44Rd8GEmzdRV6YG5SNXlU87aRpaE2JD-GjkPNWCcBC27gMRXMlbttd8nd55qii-3cWvwkEmaajaWXI4zBc7jc8xf6pL81bhWdeiz8YiIK60aP9If/s1600-h/Pocket+square+pointed.jpg"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeZjH2ZMiPNeAHMHXzxKLVXfFMWQ1-44Rd8GEmzdRV6YG5SNXlU87aRpaE2JD-GjkPNWCcBC27gMRXMlbttd8nd55qii-3cWvwkEmaajaWXI4zBc7jc8xf6pL81bhWdeiz8YiIK60aP9If/s320/Pocket+square+pointed.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5234178481417831426" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgT8vRF0oBwu-ZtYaN2QUt80QxicfZAlwF4xntZXcyHLOTS3QZyox2y-hyv9r5gmjQV3T1NO9gxYZ44GqLqvpySFYsqOwvQ0E1TZw8-DlKJuheHge8ZO43hjESL26KkF_1TCimRbJkHxale/s1600-h/Pocket+square+personality.jpg"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgT8vRF0oBwu-ZtYaN2QUt80QxicfZAlwF4xntZXcyHLOTS3QZyox2y-hyv9r5gmjQV3T1NO9gxYZ44GqLqvpySFYsqOwvQ0E1TZw8-DlKJuheHge8ZO43hjESL26KkF_1TCimRbJkHxale/s320/Pocket+square+personality.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5234178419858427602" /></a><br /><br />Ahh the pocket square...what a great way to express your personality. <br /><br />When going all business, keep the pocket square white with a sharp crisp line. When feeling a little more adventurous point it a bit and change the color up. For full on personality, brighten it up and let it all hang out. A pocket square is great for all occasions as you can tell form the pictures above and it really completes your look.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-623261207311476333.post-49839574354919614872008-08-12T16:12:00.000-04:002008-08-12T16:30:29.333-04:00Thom Browne believes....<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjhZnINU8prow79w9IIL-bEQ5o9VbnviLjwDxR4hyphenhyphenVoQQ03U44XUTPZJcbIoE2VuXugrwB4nHacLjU8jQqINH33E2laBinVKW8X44bwFqapwGyQTu3RtIZRRRYTSX_U4b-NNYTmgSje8lA/s1600-h/thom-browne.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjhZnINU8prow79w9IIL-bEQ5o9VbnviLjwDxR4hyphenhyphenVoQQ03U44XUTPZJcbIoE2VuXugrwB4nHacLjU8jQqINH33E2laBinVKW8X44bwFqapwGyQTu3RtIZRRRYTSX_U4b-NNYTmgSje8lA/s320/thom-browne.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5233730253754501202" /></a><br />I heard a great quote from American designer Thom Browne today. <strong>"I believe the most important thing...is doing our own thing". </strong><br />I could not have said it any better. Style is not what you pay, but how you individualize your look. Come on gentlemen, purchase custom...you will never feel or look better and contrary to what you might believe, buying custom does not break the bank. If you are buying off the rack at Nordstrom, Belk or Joseph A. Banks, then you need to rethink your approach and get more personalized with your look. YOU should make the decision on the lining color of YOUR suit jacket, the color stitching on YOUR fully functioning button holes, if you want flat front or pleated, a one button jacket or two...the list goes on. Reach out to me...you may never go back to "off the rack" again.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0